Vacation / Travel Supplement

Restaurant road trip: Bonaparte’s Retreat serves tasty French and American cuisine

Bonaparte’s Retreat Restaurant and Lounge along U.S. 421 in Napoleon serves French-themed menu items and features a collection of memorabilia of the French emperor. (Photo by Mary Ann Garber) Click for a larger version.

By Mary Ann Garber

NAPOLEON—Steaming, fragrant soup was a tasty choice for lunch at Bonaparte’s Retreat, a delightful theme restaurant in a historic building along U.S. 421 in scenic Ripley County.

Given the fact that I visited St. Maurice Parish in Napoleon before dining at a restaurant named for the famous emperor, it wasn’t a tough decision.

I ordered a bowl of—what else?—homemade French onion soup slathered in gooey melted Gruyere cheese and topped with croutons.

A garden salad with bleu cheese dressing—I almost asked for French dressing—and a slice of

fresh-baked cherry pie completed my meal in the charming restaurant and bar decorated with countless images of Napoleon.

I could have ordered the Napoleon, a hoagie bun filled with ham, roast beef and bacon. Or the Bonaparte, smoked ham and swiss cheese layered on thick rye bread. Or the Josephine, chunky chicken salad served on a croissant. Or the Waterloo, a trendy grilled or crispy chicken wrap.

Or I could have dined on a variety of beef, pork and poultry entrees—made with meat from locally raised animals—or chosen Icelandic cod “seasoned your way.”

The waitress said the baby-back ribs are the house specialty—“moist and tender, lightly seasoned and slow-baked,” according to the menu—and the prime rib and butterfly shrimp are other favorites.

A large painting of Napoleon astride a white horse loomed over me while I enjoyed the aromatic soup on a cold November day. With all of Bonaparte’s images preserved in paintings and on china dishes displayed throughout the restaurant, I felt like I was being watched all the time so I made sure that I ate every bite.

Built about 1830, the building housed several businesses over the years and was even a stop on the Underground Railroad, one of a variety of hiding places for slaves as they made their way north to freedom during the 1800s.

Recently redecorated by owners Ron and Debbie Power, Bonaparte’s Retreat Restaurant and Lounge is home to a fascinating collection of Napoleon memorabilia that adds to the fun of dining there.

(For more information about Bonaparte’s Retreat Restaurant and Lounge, call 812-852-4343.) †